A Journey To The Heaven (Part III)

Part I - Manali To Leh
Part II - Leh To Nubra Valley

Part III - Day 8,9,10,11,12
September 9 : Leh-Chang La-Tangsey-Pangong Tso
September 10: Pangong Tso & Around

September 11: Pangong Tso-Tangsey-Chang La-Leh

September 12,13: Leh
Approx distance covered: 400Km

Day Eight
Pangong Tso is a land locked sea. Spread across 134 Km in length, as told earlier it is the largest salt water lake in Asia. From Leh, it takes more time to reach Pangong Tso as compared to Nubra Valley. Leaving earlier was the idea. Our group of six riders was joined by Deepan who was not there with us for Nubra.

We had to take a route via Karu towards Chang la. Though it is the third highest Motorable road in the world, it is considered most difficult to climb amongst three. Because of that it is also famous as The “Mighty Chang La” amongst bikes. Chang La tests your patience. It takes around 30 km to reach its top once you start climbing. Road is in good condition and properly tarred at most of the places. Top portion of high mountain roads are usually broken. It is impossible to maintain them practically as it often snows over there.

Almost everybody's motorcycles were struggling for power throughout the climb. Bikes were behaving like loaded container climbing ghats. Only happy soul was Bhuwan Singh with his T-Bird. DJ used to say “Paaji to 50 pe hi chalte hai.. road condition se inko to koi matlab nahi!”.

At Chang la top we stopped for a break. A temple of Changla Baba stands over there. It was even colder than Khardung la. Everybody was shivering. A Gorkha Regiment soldier was serving tea in front of the temple. No charges for that. If you feel like paying, use drop box placed there. Tea was good. Everybody paid 10 bucks. "Gorkha Regiment ke Jawan to bade bahadur hoti hai.. aur khatarnak bhi.. " I told that soldier. His narrow eyes almost disappeared as he responded with a smile. He was very proud of it.
Just 6-8 loops from there and Chang La was over. We were entering Eastern Ladakh - the Changthung plateu. Similar landscapes all new colours. It was like as if somebody has just changed the colour theme. On the way we saw small lakes, Yaks wandering over vast grasslands, nomads with their horses, sheeps. A nomadic tribe known as 'Changpa' lives here.

'Changthung' itself means a land with fewer people. I stopped near a lake looking around for clicking few shots. I heard Yogesh yelling at me- "Your Bike.. look behind man!". I turned back, the next moment my bike was lying on the ground. Even on main stand it couldn’t stand the softened soil around the lake. My helmet fell into the water. Sponge inside it was completely drenched. I had wear a monkey cap so as to remain protected from the chill wind which hits you while riding. I covered remaining 60-70 kms sporting that terrorist look! We reached Pangong when it was getting dark. There was no point in going towards the lake at this time. I dumped my luggage in the small 3 room house nearby the lake where we stayed overnight. We quickly proceeded towards the kitchen cum tent set up by the house owner to fill our empty stomachs.

Day Nine

According to plan, the next morning we were to attempt Marasmik La which is a mountain pass few kms ahead at even higher altitude than Khardung La. It is not easily motorable and only 4 wheelers can go there that too with some difficulty. Nobody else was in a mood to do it so only Yogesh, I and DJ decided to give it a try. But sadly the military police at its base didn’t allow us to go further as weather at the top was risky according to them. Yogesh, was very disappointed as this was the only new part in his third trip to Ladakh.

Rest of the morning we spent hanging around the lake. Pangong Tso is extremly tranquil. You will loose youself sitting idle at its shore. The tent owner said that seven different colours can be seen in the waters of Pangong at different lightening conditions. We could see 4 colours - Green, Ocean Blue, Dark Blue and Silver in our stay around it till afternon.

We had nothing to do as Marasmik la was no more on the plan so we decided to leave. We could move few Kms ahead and the road was blocked by a sudden flash flood. High speed flow of thick muddy water was passing over a portion of broken road 4 km from Pangong. It was a scary to watch table sized rocks speeding down with its flow. Somehow we were able to make DJ cross it before one more layer of dump formed over the road. He headed towards Leh and we returned to the tents helplessly. It was unclear when the road will open again. With zero cell phone network and no STD fascility we were like being disconnected from rest of the world.

Day Ten

It was not a good sight to see mountain tops surrounding Pangong covered in snow. We were witnessing the characteristic of Ladakh's weather - dramatic overnight change. After having our breakfast, we went back to the site of flash flood. A BRO bulldozer was on there slowly clearing off the thick layer of mud. We waited there for 3 hours in a bad weather before the road was cleared. It was cold, windy & snowing inbetween. Also, thanks to yesterday's cold evening when I went on a long test ride of Bhuwan's T-Bird, I got fever in the morning. It was little worrying as Chang La was a big challenge in such weather. As expected we got hard ice patches on its top. I had to ride carefully as those patches are dangerously sleepery and a fall is the last thing I wished to happen in that condition. My fingers were dead frozen till I reached top my energy level was also low because of the illness. I was happy to reach Chang La top without knowing that next hour would turn out to be the toughest part in my entire trip.
As I crosses top and started descending and I was welcomed by combined attack of snowfall and spine chilling wind. Temperature further dropped. After sometime when I reached at slightly lower level, snow stopped but wind and thick fog were still there. I decided not to stop anywhere till I reach at lower altitude where wind and fog would vanish away. I kept wishing only. Things always go wrong in a bulk. As the fog started vanishing, before I could sigh in relief, it started raining. It rained till I reached Karu. My leather jacket was completely washed out. I didn’t even stop for putting on rain suit. That day, I did not click even a single photo except this one till I reached Leh.

Day 11, 12

September 12 & 13 Leh


I had to take complete bed rest for a day. Meanwhile, Yogesh alone went ahead for doing Zanskar. Few guys also left for Kargil the next day. I, Bhuwan & Umesh were planned to say goodbye to Leh on 14th. On the day before that we roamed in the city & did some shopping. In the evening I was able to take photograph of Leh palace in night. Till that time I completely recovered and was ready for last part of the journey - Kargil and Srinagar.

Part IV Leh-Kargil-Srinagar

Other Links:

Part I - Manali To Leh
Part II - Leh-Nubra Valley
Journey To The Heaven: Flickr Photo Collection